Leather shoes require both cleaning and conditioning — removing dirt and salt damages the leather surface, but leather also dries out and cracks without periodic conditioning. Toronto winters are particularly tough on leather: road salt is an aggressive desiccant that dries and stiffens leather quickly.
Tools
- Horsehair brush (for buffing) and stiff brush (for removing dried mud)
- Damp cloth
- Leather cleaner or saddle soap
- Leather conditioner (such as Leather Honey, Bick 4, or mink oil)
- Shoe polish (optional — for black or brown shoes)
- Polish applicator brush or cloth
Cleaning
- Use a stiff brush to remove dried mud and loose dirt — work around the welt (the seam between sole and upper) where dirt compacts
- Remove laces and clean separately
- Apply a small amount of leather cleaner or saddle soap to a damp cloth and work in circular motions over the entire upper surface — saddle soap both cleans and provides a small amount of conditioning
- Wipe off with a clean damp cloth
- Allow to dry at room temperature — not near a heat source, which dries and cracks the leather
Removing Salt Stains (Toronto Winter)
- Allow the shoes to dry completely first
- Mix equal parts white vinegar and water
- Dip a soft cloth in the solution and dab onto the salt tide marks — the mild acid neutralizes the alkaline salt
- Wipe clean with a damp cloth and allow to dry
- Condition immediately after — salt removal also removes leather oils
Conditioning
- Apply a small amount of leather conditioner to a cloth and work it into all surfaces in circular motions
- Allow to absorb for 15–30 minutes
- Buff with a horsehair brush to remove excess — over-conditioning leaves the leather greasy and attracts dirt
- Condition every 1–3 months during active wear; more frequently if wearing in salt and wet conditions
Polishing (Optional)
- Apply cream or wax polish in a thin coat with a cloth, allow to dry, then buff vigorously with a horsehair brush — polish restores colour depth and adds a moisture barrier
- Wax polish provides better weather protection; cream polish provides more conditioning